I have lots of people to say thank you to. Without you I probably wouldn't have completed my trip, and I certainly wouldn't have enjoyed it as much as I did.
Vaughan and Liz
For being my fabulous support crew for the second half of my trip, and for opening up your home in Bristol to me. You both gave up a fortnight's annual leave to chase me around the northern part of the UK, arranging campsites and setting up / packing away every day when I was out on my bike. You comforted me when I arrived exhausted and cold, helped me find the best routes each day, and made sure I was eating the right things. You also put up with my crabby mood when I arrived places, needing a shower and change of clothes before I could be anywhere near pleasant company.
Lindsay and Naomi
For coming over to Bristol to surprise me and see me off on my second week's cycling.
Garry and Gill
For surprising me on my return from the trip and showing how proud you were of me.
All the coaches, young riders and parents at Preston Park Youth Cycle Club
For never moaning that I wouldn't be around to help through the whole of September, following my travels with interest through the blog, and showing me such warmth of congratulations when I returned.
Anthony and Ben
For lending me a set of the PPYCC lights (Anthony) and building me a dynamo hub so that, one day, I can have a dynamo front light that charges my electronic gizmos (Ben). I'll get to test the hub once the light / re-charger gets to me, eventually, from Germany ...
Sheila, Ceri, and Adrian
For welcoming me so warmly in Ross-on-Wye and giving me a luxurious night's stay in comfort.
Fiona, Lesley, Barbara, Judith, Anne, and Sheila
For wishing me well in style on the Isle of Wight, sending me encouraging messages during the trip, and being the best group of friends a 50 year old woman would ever want.
Everyone who sponsored me
I loved reading about the sponsorship money coming in, and the lovely little messages people posted on the JustGiving page. It made me weep as I crossed the Forth Bridge, thinking of all the people who cared about what I was doing.
Chas Roberts
For building me the best bike for the job. You're a genius.
The bike shops I visited - Harry Halls in Manchester, Evans in Kendal, Leith Cycles in Edinburgh, Sandy Wallace Cycles in Inverkeithing, and Mr Bike in Montrose
For giving me good advice, taking the time to chat about my trip, and being encouraging about the challenge I was undertaking.
Dad
For showing me the spirit of adventure in mid-life and beyond, and the joy of eccentricity. You'd have been proud of me.
Monday 21 October 2013
Reflections and lessons learned
It's now nearly a month since I completed my journey across the UK. I've had time to reflect, and been interested in the particular questions people have asked me about the trip. I'm also keen to capture key points of learning, both for myself (I'm keen to tackle similar touring challenges, or even reverse my journey by doing JOGLE, John O'Groats to Land's End) and others who might want to attempt something similar.
What to leave behind next time
I used most things that I took with me, but there were a few things I could have done without, in order to save space and weight in the panniers:
Extra toiletries - even though I didn't carry these with me in my panniers, leaving them with my brother for re-stocks, I found I actually only needed one pot of moisturiser for the whole month and one big tube of the Hoo Ha Ride Glide chamois cream. Even though I was attempting to avoid shopping trips in towns for supplies, I think the weight and space saved by not carrying extras would outweigh the inconvenience of swinging by a pharmacy every now and then.
Non-cycling clothes - I wore these for such short periods of time that I really didn't need several outfits. I took a skirt as well as jersey trousers and did wear both, but I'm not sure they both justify the pannier space. I also only needed the one, merino wool, T-shirt. The fleece gilet plus fleece hooded long sleeved top were bulky but worn almost every evening after the sun went down so I wouldn't jettison either of those.
Cycling clothes - I took two summer-weight short sleeved cycling jerseys, thinking I would wash them each day and dry them whilst wearing the other one. The truth is, I was too late and tired when I got in at night to bother washing clothes, and drying clothes overnight or on the back of the bike wasn't always possible. So, I'd opt for just one, with full length zip for ease when having a nature break with bib shorts on. I also took a pair of non-bib cycling shorts and a pair of cycling tights. In truth, I only really needed the bib shorts when I already had leg warmers, and I only wore the non-bib shorts once as they weren't as comfortable as the bib shorts.
What to include next time
I had to buy some things that I hadn't packed, and these would be essential to include another time, I feel.
Cycling clothes - waterproof cycling trousers and overshoes were, I discovered, a necessity. Sealskinz socks and gloves, which I took with me, also provided a certain degree of protection from the wet (and cold), but even they have their limits and I had to buy a second pair of waterproof full fingered gloves so that one pair could be drying whilst I wore the others. Wearing plastic bags between socks and shoes whenever rain was forecasted also ensured my feet kept warm and dry. The long sleeved base layer that I bought in Inverkeithing was also essential once I got into Scotland with the cold mornings and evenings.
Short bungee straps - I discovered, on a test ride with full panniers, that my front panniers kept jumping off the rack on fast downhill descents or bumpy tracks. Cheap short bungee straps bought in Bristol before the trip did the job of keeping the panniers in place. They were also more useful later in the trip than the longer ones I had, for securing the waterproof stuff sack to the back rack.
Paintbrush - The Sustrans tracks can be very dusty and muddy. The simple household paintbrush that I was given by Andy in Harry Halls Cycles was one of the most useful bike maintenance tools I had with me, after chain lube and multi tool.
Nutrition - I needed energy drinks with carbs, not just electrolyte drink tablets. I also needed sports energy bars, not just cereal bars. It was a false economy to try to save money by getting snacks from supermarkets rather than sports shops.
Seven top items I can't rave about enough
There are certain items that made such a positive contribution to my enjoyment of the trip that I think they need a special mention:
Chamois cream - the Hoo Ha Ride Glide cream meant I never once got sore, numb, or uncomfortable in those parts that are sensitive and gender specific. I've tried other chamois creams since, but I really do believe that the 'special formulation' for women ensures nothing gets irritated. It also smells lovely so lifts the spirits when putting it on.
Bib shorts - like the chamois cream, I only tried these a few days before setting off on the trip. The ones I have fit me perfectly, have a wonderfully comfortable pad, and seem to endure several days of wearing without washing. (I know for hygiene I should wear fresh shorts each day, but it's just not possible on a trip like this.) The inconvenience at nature breaks in the outdoors is far outweighed by the comfort during long hours in the saddle.
iPad - this was relatively heavy, but meant I could type up my blog on a regular basis and upload it whenever I found somewhere with wi-fi. I had some books on it to read (Dervla Murphy specifically, for inspiration), but found I didn't need anything to either send me to sleep or while away the hours. The only problem with it was the inability to upload photographs from my camera, which I thought I'd be able to do (the camera takes too much power). As a consequence, I ended up taking two photos each time - one with my smart phone to send straight to facebook, and a better one to add to the blog once I got to a full computer. If the iPad mini fits into my handlebar bag, I might consider taking one of those instead next time and taking photos with it as well as writing a blog.
Mobile phone - when I lost my Blackberry, I realised how vulnerable I felt without a means of contacting people should I need to. I didn't sync my emails to the iPhone I got as a replacement, and I still haven't as I like choosing when I switch the computer on to pick up email now. The phone, though, felt essential.
Garmin bike computer - without this I wouldn't have known how far I'd cycled each day (which was very motivational), wouldn't now have the maps of each day's ride to look back on, and wouldn't have been able to check my exact position against the Ordnance Survey map for my location. Like the mobile phone, my Garmin reassured me and made me more confident about cycling alone in parts of the country I didn't know, without having to carry detailed paper maps for large parts of the country (impossible).
Ortlieb panniers - they really are totally waterproof, and I tested them to their limits on a couple of days. They may not be as 'user friendly' as other panniers I've had in the past (e.g. separate pockets and sections so you can find things quickly), but for touring in this country I think they're essential.
Roberts touring bike - I think Chas Roberts deserves a knighthood. Having listened to the kind of riding I'd be doing, he built me the perfect bike. Not one puncture, despite punishing the bike and travelling 1,414 miles on it. No aches, pains, or injuries, bar the neck ache at the beginning of the trip, which I think was just my neck getting used to the length of day's riding and the strain of pushing the bike up lots of steep hills. Only one necessary trip to a bike mechanic for a slight tweak of the gears. Amazing.
When to go
September meant I could celebrate my 50th birthday whilst on the trip, and I'd definitely want to go outside school holiday times for ease of booking into campsites and youth hostels. I was relatively lucky with the weather (even if I thought differently when in Morecombe and Edinburgh!), though early autumn can be unpredictable. Mind you, any month in the UK can be unpredictable, so I'm not sure that's particularly relevant.
I'd have liked longer evenings as I arrived at my destinations in the dark more often than I'd planned or hoped. If I had to set up a tent at the end of the day more than I did, this would have been a challenge for me.
For length of days, June is the obvious choice. This is also before schools break up. This is the height of the midge season in Scotland however.
Which routes to use
As the trip went on, I became less precious about sticking rigidly to the Sustrans National and Regional Cycle Network. I did enjoy using these routes however; I could use many of the Sustrans maps which helped with easy navigation, and the cyclist specific signposts assisted my journeys almost everywhere except city and town centres, where I suspect they are sabotaged by locals.
The on-road Sustrans routes were fantastic, with a combination of quieter main roads and exceptionally quiet country lanes.
The off-road Sustrans routes were less predictable. I was lucky to not get a single puncture as many of the paths were very rough, and some almost totally overgrown. Carrying the bike and panniers up steps or extremely steep loose banks was the most annoying aspect of these paths. On the other hand, there were also long stretches of smooth tarmac shared use paths through stunning scenery which I wouldn't have wanted to miss for the world.
Given another chance, I'd choose a practical combination of National and Regional Cycle Network routes and roads. This would save considerably on cycling time whilst maintaining the interest and beauty of many of the routes and scenery.
Where to stay
The YHA Hostels were fantastic value as well as being warm, dry, and with all the facilities needed at the end of a day's cycling. I'd seriously consider planning a trip where I could stay in them all the time, therefore removing the need to carry camping equipment whilst still keeping an eye on the budget.
I also love camping, but found the weight of camping equipment slowed me down and gnawed at my spirit. I also ended up fretting about the time needed to set up and pack away the tent. I think I'll stick to short trips camping with the bike, perhaps setting up base somewhere rather than touring so I don't need the panniers with me all the time. This could be good for the most northern reaches of England and into Scotland, where I wouldn't want to drive with the camper van as my base.
Occasional forays into cyclist friendly B&Bs were a luxury and treat. If I managed to stay mainly in YHA Hostels, I'm not sure I'd need this as much, especially since I often had a dormitory to myself mid-week, at a fraction of the cost of a B&B.
How much it costed
The total cost of the trip, excluding the supplies and equipment I bought before I set off, was £1,384.58. This includes the additional clothing and maps I bought en route.
One of the reasons I decided to do this independently was the cost of organised trips (as well as the opportunity to go on the route I wanted, and take as much time as I needed). So I was interested to compare the cost of my trip with some of the organised group trips that are on offer.
The cheapest I can find is with More Adventure. They do a 14 day camping version which costs £995, but this excludes evening meals.
The next cheapest one is with Saddle Skedaddle. They take 15 days, staying in shared rooms in B&Bs, and it costs from £2,100, but this includes only 50% of lunches and no evening meals.
The last one I found was with bikecation. They take 14 days, cost £1,645, and don't include evening meals.
On reflection I'm still glad I didn't go with an organised group. There may be less hassle with organising accommodation and meals, and easier cycling with your luggage being carried for you, but I'd prefer to cycle slowly on quiet roads in splendid solitude than join a group pushing the miles on busy roads.
What I learned
In no particular order, the key things I learned on my trip were:
- 99% of people in the UK are extraordinarily kind, helpful, and interested in another person's adventure. There is very little need to be scared of strangers.
- I love my own company and don't get lonely.
- I'm happiest when I'm in the saddle outdoors. Weather and terrain doesn't affect my mood very much at all, as long as I have the right clothes and equipment.
- If I give myself the time, I can navigate reasonably well.
- Send off ahead of time for city centre cycling maps if cycling through big places.
- I don't like to be rushed or hurried. I need to do things in my own time to be happy.
- Morecombe is a dump.
- Crask Inn is the best place in the UK to stay for a night.
- When cycling all day, I need to consume a lot of calories as well as protein and fluids.
- Independent bike shops are incredibly wonderful places, with staff that just want you to enjoy your cycling.
- Very few cyclists use the Sustrans routes for long distance tours.
- Very very few lone women cycle tour alone. In truth, I saw absolutely none on the whole of my trip. I'm an oddity. (You can read that last sentence as part of the main point, or a separate point on it's own. Your choice.)
What to leave behind next time
I used most things that I took with me, but there were a few things I could have done without, in order to save space and weight in the panniers:
Extra toiletries - even though I didn't carry these with me in my panniers, leaving them with my brother for re-stocks, I found I actually only needed one pot of moisturiser for the whole month and one big tube of the Hoo Ha Ride Glide chamois cream. Even though I was attempting to avoid shopping trips in towns for supplies, I think the weight and space saved by not carrying extras would outweigh the inconvenience of swinging by a pharmacy every now and then.
Non-cycling clothes - I wore these for such short periods of time that I really didn't need several outfits. I took a skirt as well as jersey trousers and did wear both, but I'm not sure they both justify the pannier space. I also only needed the one, merino wool, T-shirt. The fleece gilet plus fleece hooded long sleeved top were bulky but worn almost every evening after the sun went down so I wouldn't jettison either of those.
Cycling clothes - I took two summer-weight short sleeved cycling jerseys, thinking I would wash them each day and dry them whilst wearing the other one. The truth is, I was too late and tired when I got in at night to bother washing clothes, and drying clothes overnight or on the back of the bike wasn't always possible. So, I'd opt for just one, with full length zip for ease when having a nature break with bib shorts on. I also took a pair of non-bib cycling shorts and a pair of cycling tights. In truth, I only really needed the bib shorts when I already had leg warmers, and I only wore the non-bib shorts once as they weren't as comfortable as the bib shorts.
What to include next time
I had to buy some things that I hadn't packed, and these would be essential to include another time, I feel.
Cycling clothes - waterproof cycling trousers and overshoes were, I discovered, a necessity. Sealskinz socks and gloves, which I took with me, also provided a certain degree of protection from the wet (and cold), but even they have their limits and I had to buy a second pair of waterproof full fingered gloves so that one pair could be drying whilst I wore the others. Wearing plastic bags between socks and shoes whenever rain was forecasted also ensured my feet kept warm and dry. The long sleeved base layer that I bought in Inverkeithing was also essential once I got into Scotland with the cold mornings and evenings.
Short bungee straps - I discovered, on a test ride with full panniers, that my front panniers kept jumping off the rack on fast downhill descents or bumpy tracks. Cheap short bungee straps bought in Bristol before the trip did the job of keeping the panniers in place. They were also more useful later in the trip than the longer ones I had, for securing the waterproof stuff sack to the back rack.
Paintbrush - The Sustrans tracks can be very dusty and muddy. The simple household paintbrush that I was given by Andy in Harry Halls Cycles was one of the most useful bike maintenance tools I had with me, after chain lube and multi tool.
Nutrition - I needed energy drinks with carbs, not just electrolyte drink tablets. I also needed sports energy bars, not just cereal bars. It was a false economy to try to save money by getting snacks from supermarkets rather than sports shops.
Seven top items I can't rave about enough
There are certain items that made such a positive contribution to my enjoyment of the trip that I think they need a special mention:
Chamois cream - the Hoo Ha Ride Glide cream meant I never once got sore, numb, or uncomfortable in those parts that are sensitive and gender specific. I've tried other chamois creams since, but I really do believe that the 'special formulation' for women ensures nothing gets irritated. It also smells lovely so lifts the spirits when putting it on.
Bib shorts - like the chamois cream, I only tried these a few days before setting off on the trip. The ones I have fit me perfectly, have a wonderfully comfortable pad, and seem to endure several days of wearing without washing. (I know for hygiene I should wear fresh shorts each day, but it's just not possible on a trip like this.) The inconvenience at nature breaks in the outdoors is far outweighed by the comfort during long hours in the saddle.
iPad - this was relatively heavy, but meant I could type up my blog on a regular basis and upload it whenever I found somewhere with wi-fi. I had some books on it to read (Dervla Murphy specifically, for inspiration), but found I didn't need anything to either send me to sleep or while away the hours. The only problem with it was the inability to upload photographs from my camera, which I thought I'd be able to do (the camera takes too much power). As a consequence, I ended up taking two photos each time - one with my smart phone to send straight to facebook, and a better one to add to the blog once I got to a full computer. If the iPad mini fits into my handlebar bag, I might consider taking one of those instead next time and taking photos with it as well as writing a blog.
Mobile phone - when I lost my Blackberry, I realised how vulnerable I felt without a means of contacting people should I need to. I didn't sync my emails to the iPhone I got as a replacement, and I still haven't as I like choosing when I switch the computer on to pick up email now. The phone, though, felt essential.
Garmin bike computer - without this I wouldn't have known how far I'd cycled each day (which was very motivational), wouldn't now have the maps of each day's ride to look back on, and wouldn't have been able to check my exact position against the Ordnance Survey map for my location. Like the mobile phone, my Garmin reassured me and made me more confident about cycling alone in parts of the country I didn't know, without having to carry detailed paper maps for large parts of the country (impossible).
Ortlieb panniers - they really are totally waterproof, and I tested them to their limits on a couple of days. They may not be as 'user friendly' as other panniers I've had in the past (e.g. separate pockets and sections so you can find things quickly), but for touring in this country I think they're essential.
Roberts touring bike - I think Chas Roberts deserves a knighthood. Having listened to the kind of riding I'd be doing, he built me the perfect bike. Not one puncture, despite punishing the bike and travelling 1,414 miles on it. No aches, pains, or injuries, bar the neck ache at the beginning of the trip, which I think was just my neck getting used to the length of day's riding and the strain of pushing the bike up lots of steep hills. Only one necessary trip to a bike mechanic for a slight tweak of the gears. Amazing.
When to go
September meant I could celebrate my 50th birthday whilst on the trip, and I'd definitely want to go outside school holiday times for ease of booking into campsites and youth hostels. I was relatively lucky with the weather (even if I thought differently when in Morecombe and Edinburgh!), though early autumn can be unpredictable. Mind you, any month in the UK can be unpredictable, so I'm not sure that's particularly relevant.
I'd have liked longer evenings as I arrived at my destinations in the dark more often than I'd planned or hoped. If I had to set up a tent at the end of the day more than I did, this would have been a challenge for me.
For length of days, June is the obvious choice. This is also before schools break up. This is the height of the midge season in Scotland however.
Which routes to use
As the trip went on, I became less precious about sticking rigidly to the Sustrans National and Regional Cycle Network. I did enjoy using these routes however; I could use many of the Sustrans maps which helped with easy navigation, and the cyclist specific signposts assisted my journeys almost everywhere except city and town centres, where I suspect they are sabotaged by locals.
The on-road Sustrans routes were fantastic, with a combination of quieter main roads and exceptionally quiet country lanes.
The off-road Sustrans routes were less predictable. I was lucky to not get a single puncture as many of the paths were very rough, and some almost totally overgrown. Carrying the bike and panniers up steps or extremely steep loose banks was the most annoying aspect of these paths. On the other hand, there were also long stretches of smooth tarmac shared use paths through stunning scenery which I wouldn't have wanted to miss for the world.
Given another chance, I'd choose a practical combination of National and Regional Cycle Network routes and roads. This would save considerably on cycling time whilst maintaining the interest and beauty of many of the routes and scenery.
Where to stay
The YHA Hostels were fantastic value as well as being warm, dry, and with all the facilities needed at the end of a day's cycling. I'd seriously consider planning a trip where I could stay in them all the time, therefore removing the need to carry camping equipment whilst still keeping an eye on the budget.
I also love camping, but found the weight of camping equipment slowed me down and gnawed at my spirit. I also ended up fretting about the time needed to set up and pack away the tent. I think I'll stick to short trips camping with the bike, perhaps setting up base somewhere rather than touring so I don't need the panniers with me all the time. This could be good for the most northern reaches of England and into Scotland, where I wouldn't want to drive with the camper van as my base.
Occasional forays into cyclist friendly B&Bs were a luxury and treat. If I managed to stay mainly in YHA Hostels, I'm not sure I'd need this as much, especially since I often had a dormitory to myself mid-week, at a fraction of the cost of a B&B.
How much it costed
The total cost of the trip, excluding the supplies and equipment I bought before I set off, was £1,384.58. This includes the additional clothing and maps I bought en route.
One of the reasons I decided to do this independently was the cost of organised trips (as well as the opportunity to go on the route I wanted, and take as much time as I needed). So I was interested to compare the cost of my trip with some of the organised group trips that are on offer.
The cheapest I can find is with More Adventure. They do a 14 day camping version which costs £995, but this excludes evening meals.
The next cheapest one is with Saddle Skedaddle. They take 15 days, staying in shared rooms in B&Bs, and it costs from £2,100, but this includes only 50% of lunches and no evening meals.
The last one I found was with bikecation. They take 14 days, cost £1,645, and don't include evening meals.
On reflection I'm still glad I didn't go with an organised group. There may be less hassle with organising accommodation and meals, and easier cycling with your luggage being carried for you, but I'd prefer to cycle slowly on quiet roads in splendid solitude than join a group pushing the miles on busy roads.
What I learned
In no particular order, the key things I learned on my trip were:
- 99% of people in the UK are extraordinarily kind, helpful, and interested in another person's adventure. There is very little need to be scared of strangers.
- I love my own company and don't get lonely.
- I'm happiest when I'm in the saddle outdoors. Weather and terrain doesn't affect my mood very much at all, as long as I have the right clothes and equipment.
- If I give myself the time, I can navigate reasonably well.
- Send off ahead of time for city centre cycling maps if cycling through big places.
- I don't like to be rushed or hurried. I need to do things in my own time to be happy.
- Morecombe is a dump.
- Crask Inn is the best place in the UK to stay for a night.
- When cycling all day, I need to consume a lot of calories as well as protein and fluids.
- Independent bike shops are incredibly wonderful places, with staff that just want you to enjoy your cycling.
- Very few cyclists use the Sustrans routes for long distance tours.
- Very very few lone women cycle tour alone. In truth, I saw absolutely none on the whole of my trip. I'm an oddity. (You can read that last sentence as part of the main point, or a separate point on it's own. Your choice.)
Monday 14 October 2013
6 September - Bridgwater to Bristol
53.17 miles Bridgwater to Bristol (NCN3 then off-route into Bristol from Chew Stoke)
£60 for Sandford House B&B
£2.50 for beer at BB
£3.40 for tea and cake in Glastonbury
£2.95 for ice-cream, cold drink, and Mars bar from Cheddar Mendip Camping & Caravanning Club Site
I can't really blame packing the tent away for slow starts - I'd stayed in luxury and even had my breakfast cooked for me, and still I got away after 10am. I was chatting to other guests over breakfast, faffing about in my en-suite bathroom without the need to keep taking everything back to the tent or dorm room, and having a look around the smallholding that the B&B owners also run.
Once I was on my way I had a definite spring in my pedalling, as I knew I'd be seeing my brother and his girlfriend that evening and staying at their house. This meant a bit of TLC, the chance to get my cycling kit properly washed and the tent dried (it was damp when I had to pack it away a few days previously), and a lesiurely evening over a meal and a pint.
The run to Glastonbury was ridiculously easy as the Somerset Levels really are that. One stretch of road could have been built for time-trialling as it's dead straight and flat, between two drainage ditches, so I got into the big ring, crouched down into my version of an aerodynamic riding position, and almost forgot I had a ton of luggage on the bike. You see Galstonbury Tor for many miles as you approach the town, which is a fantastic motivation as you move through the Somerset lanes.
The final approach to Glastonbury town was quite magical. I'm sure some new-age hippies were involved in the construction - a cycle path that winds along beneath a tunnel of young trees.
Glastonbury itself is, in my opinion, a tacky commercialised place. Every other shop sells crystals, reads Tarot, or offers versions of Green Man and Goddess goods or new age hippy clothing. I stopped for a cup of tea and piece of gluten-free cake, but felt I wanted to get out of the town fairly quickly as it all felt so fake.
After Glastonbury I approached the Mendip Hills. I hadn't realised until this point that Cheddar Gorge and Wooky Hole were here, and I looked with fear at my map that showed an alarming number of contour lines extremely close together. I braced myself for some serious climbing. The road through Wooky Hole (another great place name) had a red arrow on my map, showing a significant incline, but when I reached it I was mildly disappointed as I'd met equivalent back in Cornwall, without arrows on the map. I still had to push the bike up, however.
Once I reached Chew Valley Lake I phoned my brother as he said he'd ride out to meet me. I also phoned the Sustrans Head Office in Bristol as they said they'd be keen for me to pop in on my way through. It looked like I'd just about get to Bristol before their office closed for the weekend.
Had I not taken a wrong turning, I'd probably have made that deadline. I think I'd got so used to cycling at my own pace, arriving places whenever I did and not worrying about being 'late' for anything or anyone, that the perceived pressure of meeting people by a certain time made me lose concentration. Instead of continuing to follow my route, I found myself on a busy road in Friday afternoon rush hour, going up a horrid steep hill with traffic rushing past. It all felt wrong after the amount of day on quiet back roads and lanes, but I knew I was heading towards Bristol from the road signs and my simple compass on my bell, so I kept ploughing on.
When my brother phoned to ask where I was, I realised I'd gone wrong, but I was damned if I was going back down the hill I'd just climbed, so said I'd press on and meet my brother in Bristol. The road became even busier, I had to remember how to be street-smart in traffic after a week away from it, and I passed through parts of Bristol I didn't want to hang around in. Eventually, I managed to get to a central Bristol landmark that I'd walked past with my brother the weekend before, so called him to describe it (it was one of the Gromit statues that were placed around the city). After a stressful end to the day's journey, I was delighted for my brother to escort me home for the final half a mile or so.
Following a nice soak in the bath and a glass of home-made beer (thanks to Garry, my other brother), I was told that we were walking a short way to the pub for a meal as Vaughan and Liz wanted to show me a lovely country estate on the edge of Bristol and a country pub with reputation for good food. I thought it was strange, since they live close to lots of pubs and restaurants, but went with the flow.
I discovered the reason for choice of pub when my sister and niece appeared, having driven up from Hampshire to meet me as a surprise - the country pub was the only one with rooms available. We had a lovely evening chatting about growing up together as a family and laughing together. An unexpected and delightful end to the day.
£60 for Sandford House B&B
£2.50 for beer at BB
£3.40 for tea and cake in Glastonbury
£2.95 for ice-cream, cold drink, and Mars bar from Cheddar Mendip Camping & Caravanning Club Site
I can't really blame packing the tent away for slow starts - I'd stayed in luxury and even had my breakfast cooked for me, and still I got away after 10am. I was chatting to other guests over breakfast, faffing about in my en-suite bathroom without the need to keep taking everything back to the tent or dorm room, and having a look around the smallholding that the B&B owners also run.
Once I was on my way I had a definite spring in my pedalling, as I knew I'd be seeing my brother and his girlfriend that evening and staying at their house. This meant a bit of TLC, the chance to get my cycling kit properly washed and the tent dried (it was damp when I had to pack it away a few days previously), and a lesiurely evening over a meal and a pint.
The run to Glastonbury was ridiculously easy as the Somerset Levels really are that. One stretch of road could have been built for time-trialling as it's dead straight and flat, between two drainage ditches, so I got into the big ring, crouched down into my version of an aerodynamic riding position, and almost forgot I had a ton of luggage on the bike. You see Galstonbury Tor for many miles as you approach the town, which is a fantastic motivation as you move through the Somerset lanes.
The final approach to Glastonbury town was quite magical. I'm sure some new-age hippies were involved in the construction - a cycle path that winds along beneath a tunnel of young trees.
Glastonbury itself is, in my opinion, a tacky commercialised place. Every other shop sells crystals, reads Tarot, or offers versions of Green Man and Goddess goods or new age hippy clothing. I stopped for a cup of tea and piece of gluten-free cake, but felt I wanted to get out of the town fairly quickly as it all felt so fake.
After Glastonbury I approached the Mendip Hills. I hadn't realised until this point that Cheddar Gorge and Wooky Hole were here, and I looked with fear at my map that showed an alarming number of contour lines extremely close together. I braced myself for some serious climbing. The road through Wooky Hole (another great place name) had a red arrow on my map, showing a significant incline, but when I reached it I was mildly disappointed as I'd met equivalent back in Cornwall, without arrows on the map. I still had to push the bike up, however.
Once I reached Chew Valley Lake I phoned my brother as he said he'd ride out to meet me. I also phoned the Sustrans Head Office in Bristol as they said they'd be keen for me to pop in on my way through. It looked like I'd just about get to Bristol before their office closed for the weekend.
Had I not taken a wrong turning, I'd probably have made that deadline. I think I'd got so used to cycling at my own pace, arriving places whenever I did and not worrying about being 'late' for anything or anyone, that the perceived pressure of meeting people by a certain time made me lose concentration. Instead of continuing to follow my route, I found myself on a busy road in Friday afternoon rush hour, going up a horrid steep hill with traffic rushing past. It all felt wrong after the amount of day on quiet back roads and lanes, but I knew I was heading towards Bristol from the road signs and my simple compass on my bell, so I kept ploughing on.
When my brother phoned to ask where I was, I realised I'd gone wrong, but I was damned if I was going back down the hill I'd just climbed, so said I'd press on and meet my brother in Bristol. The road became even busier, I had to remember how to be street-smart in traffic after a week away from it, and I passed through parts of Bristol I didn't want to hang around in. Eventually, I managed to get to a central Bristol landmark that I'd walked past with my brother the weekend before, so called him to describe it (it was one of the Gromit statues that were placed around the city). After a stressful end to the day's journey, I was delighted for my brother to escort me home for the final half a mile or so.
Following a nice soak in the bath and a glass of home-made beer (thanks to Garry, my other brother), I was told that we were walking a short way to the pub for a meal as Vaughan and Liz wanted to show me a lovely country estate on the edge of Bristol and a country pub with reputation for good food. I thought it was strange, since they live close to lots of pubs and restaurants, but went with the flow.
I discovered the reason for choice of pub when my sister and niece appeared, having driven up from Hampshire to meet me as a surprise - the country pub was the only one with rooms available. We had a lovely evening chatting about growing up together as a family and laughing together. An unexpected and delightful end to the day.
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